Source for jacket material.

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SovietAirborne	Source for jacket material.		Lead	[-]
Posts: 3 05/07/09 13:14:13	Tags : None Hello again guys (and gals)! I know this question has been asked a million times in the past but I haven't found anything about it on this section of the forum (if I missed it please point me to it ). I am trying to source the correct cavalry twill material (both in weight and in color) that was used for this jacket. Does anyone here know where this material is being made currently or if it is being made at all? If it was made in the past, does anyone remember the mill (or mills) that was manufacturing it? Thanks again for your assistance on this!
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garver76		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 165 05/07/09 17:09:40	Well, the screen sued were made of wool elastique which is similar to the cavalry twill... As for a current source... none that I know of... we are trying to source some...
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Captain Gordon		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 3 05/08/09 06:51:27	Where abouts are you? Basically I found high street fabric shops hardly ever do any Wool Suiting fabrics. I once found a white wool elastquique, so I bought a sample and tried dying it, but the synthetic part wouldn't take up the dye, so it just came out pink! Eventually I couldn't believe my luck after months of searching online and in my local fabric shops when I found the correct shade of burgandy wool elastique in one of the dozens of fabric shops in Berwick Street, at Soho in London back in January, But they only had 2 and half meters. So I suggest trying the trendy parts of large cities. I also found the correct fabric in a sample catalogue at an expensive taylor, and I could have ordered it through them, but it would have been £100 per meter, which was when the taylor pointed me in the direction of Soho. So maybe try at trendy taylor. Last Edited By: Captain Gordon 05/12/09 05:59:35. Edited 1 time.
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SovietAirborne		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4 05/08/09 07:10:55	You are correct Garver, from what I have seen from you on the uniform guide, you stated that It was made of wool elastique (tricotine), instead of cavalry twill. I do know of some places that can make this material. I felt before pursuing this option I would check with you guys to see if it is already being made up or if it was done in the past. It is much easier to go that route than try to re-invent the wheel. I will check with my sources and see what the minimums are. We conduct business with a mill here in the US on the wool we use and we have a 1000 yard minimum with them. I have a feeling that they will stick us with the same minimum. Do you know if your screen used jacket is blended wool or if it is 100%. I don't know if you have come across this information somewhere of if you know off hand. If the material is to be manufactured, it might as well be made the same way as the original. To Captain Gordon. I am out of Dallas, Texas. I know when I got to the fabric shops here, usually the fabric's manufacturer is on the end of the bolt of fabric. Fabric store don't have the quantity I need, so I try to go direct and inquire about manufacturing the material in quantity (or better yet, having them make the quantity I actually need!). If you ever go to these places, check and see if the manufacturer's name is on the bolt (that is if they don't replace the bolt).
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garver76		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 166 05/08/09 07:36:14	I have two jackets that were possibly made at different times... both seem to be 100% wool. I'm in Corpus Christi Texas and there are NO trendy parts of town :P SovietAirborne, I can send you a swatch or two of fabric from my jackets and if you can source the fabric based on the swatches I'd be in for a group run / buy kind of thing... BG
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SovietAirborne		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5 05/08/09 08:33:31	Thanks for the best guess Garver. I would appreciate the sample(s) so that way the color issue would also be taken care of as well. I will start talking with some of my contacts and see about yardage minimums and pricing. A group run would be fine as well. To add to this topic, what is the material (branch/department color) used on the inside of the lapel/fold-back part of the jacket? I just cannot make it out. From one of your close up photos, it looks a lot like cotton jersey knit. Also, am I correct that the black piping is also tricotine just like the shell of the jacket? I looked at your photos and it appeared as such.
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Johnny99		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 6 05/08/09 11:59:36	i'd be interested in some elastique!
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Captain Gordon		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5 05/11/09 07:47:31	Wool Elastique is a blend of 98% Wool and 2% Elastine, it needs the elastic quality to it to lay properly and stretch in the right places. Also, I'm pretty sure it has a diagonal weave to it i.e. Gaberdine. Garver has taken a pretty good upclose photo's at the bottom of the following link, and as you can see all the lines are going diagonally. Unless of course the fabric was cut on the bias, but I verry much doubt this, and I have a copy of Fletchers notes, and there's nothing to suggest this. http://startrekuniforms.yuku.com/topic/468?page=2 man you are going to have tons of fabric! how many are you planning to make?! Last Edited By: Captain Gordon 05/12/09 06:00:43. Edited 1 time.
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SovietAirborne		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 8 05/11/09 10:07:28	I have dealt with elastique (tricotine), cav twill, and gabardine for the past 8 years making uniforms on a large scale. My experience with it is that it is expensive and a pain to deal with! LOL! The business that I run has very exacting standards and I want to venture out from what we do. Star Trek is a personal interest of mine and I figured that we have the means to produce clothing from this franchise in the way we know how, exact with every little hand sewn detail. Again, this project of mine is in its infancy and I am still in the R&D phase of the project. We have to come up with patterns that are exact and this is going to take some time and research because like the other items we make here, getting your hands on an original is VERY, VERY hard to do. To answer your question Captain Gordon, I am looking into making a material run enough to sell and for us to custom make items. Also, thank you for the link about the details! This IS very helpful! You stated, "Also, I'm pretty sure it has a diagonal weive to it i.e. Gabardine." Yes, it has a VERY specific diagonal at 63 degrees. The reason some people say cavalry twill, elastique, tricotine, gabardine interchangeably, is because they are all in the same family of weave (elastique and tricotine being one and the same.). They are all a fabric with a double twill line on its face made of worsted yarns and a steep, 63 degree, right-hand weave. The paired diagonals are usually equal in size, but one rib may be heavier than the other. Its because of the weave that the cloth gains its elasticity, not the yarns nor the blend (though the blend may add to its elasticity). The fabric can be made of worsted wool, cotton, synthetics or blends. Now, cavalry twill is heavier than gabardine or elastique (tricotine). This is why you can't call gabardine or tricotine cavalry twill or vice-versa. Elastique (tricotine) is usually the highest quality of all the three. Last Edited By: SovietAirborne 05/11/09 12:29:04. Edited 1 time.
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Commodore Starska		#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 398 05/11/09 19:04:36	I like this thread! It is exciting! Keith Now Rear Admiral. Oh God No!
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Captain Gordon		#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 6 05/12/09 01:16:07	Cool, well you learn something new every day! I had no idea the stretch was due to to the weave, but I guess thinking about it that makes sense. I tell you, since I started my uniform I've been constantly frustrated with the severe lack of information out there, but this community is by far the best source out there! The old Lincon Enterprises / Roddenberry.com patterns are friggin awefull, and they've forced me to purchase Fletchers notes, which I admit have helped, but only slightly. I've had to resort to buying myself a jacket that fits properly, and unpick it to use as a pattern crossed with the old one. I believe there's a gap in the market for do-it-yourself uniform kits, Where you get a fully comprehensive pattern with specific detailed sewing unstructions, and all the screen accurate wool elatique and other fabric you need, and with all the insignia and other hardware. it's probably not a massive gap in the market, but I for one would have bought one if it were available. Last Edited By: Captain Gordon 05/12/09 06:03:51. Edited 2 times.
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Johnny99		#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 7 05/12/09 04:25:00	it DOES take some of the fun out of it though.... then again i COULD live with a little less fun if I had easy access to accurate, quality fabric....
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Captain Gordon		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 7 05/12/09 06:12:43	yeah, I admit its been heaps of fun so far, and I've learnt loads from doing it. But I started it back in January, and because I only found 2 and a half meters I didn't want to run ahead of myself, so I cut it out of callicoe first, and I'm glad I did because it was terrible. That was when I unpicked a jacket that fitted and started on my mark II callicoe, and then my sewing machine broke down. So I was hoping to get it completed by premiere day, but it was starting to take my so much time that I had to shelve it. But if I'd had a decent reliable pattern in the first place I could have saved a whole heap of time. Anyhow, I'm still going to complete it, but at a more lesuirely pace.
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garver76		#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 169 05/12/09 08:43:59	At one time Tony and I were going to start working on producing a better and more accurate pattern... Once some progress is made we will be sure to advise you all... I have a nice swatch of jacket material ready for you SovietAirborne... just need an address to mail it to! Last Edited By: garver76 05/12/09 14:49:36. Edited 1 time.
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SovietAirborne		#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 11 05/12/09 11:38:39	Garver, I have sent you a personal email.
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garver76		#15	[url]	[-]
Posts: 170 05/12/09 14:50:03	Got it... I'll get s nice swatch in the mail to you tomorrow! BG
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Telek		#16	[url]	[-]
Posts: 7 05/14/09 13:17:16	Will this fabric be available thru members on this forum ? How much do you approxomatly will it cost ?
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SovietAirborne		#17	[url]	[-]
Posts: 14 05/15/09 06:53:41	Yes, I do have plans on making the material available ONLY to those on this board. It is still to early to know (or even guess) on a price.
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garver76		#18	[url]	[-]
Posts: 172 05/15/09 09:29:59	Ok, so as promised the swatch is in the mail today! BG
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SovietAirborne		#19	[url]	[-]
Posts: 16 05/15/09 10:37:32	Thank you. I will keep a close eye out for it.
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Telek		#20	[url]	[-]
Posts: 8 05/15/09 13:17:58	Great
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Source for jacket material.

Source for jacket material.

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